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When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. However, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.